Sniffing out London’s Street Food, Pop-ups and Independents…
11 Dean Street
020 7287 8964
You heard it here first. Single mince beef. That, apparently, is the secret to a good burger. In the battle to become London’s most successful and loved outlet you gotta have a USP and The Dog has it on good authority that this is Honest Burgers’. More detail later…
Arriving just after 5 o’clock at most places would find you just beating the office drones to a table and so it was with HB… Just. The place has a dozen tables maximum, not counting a little outside space, so you’ll need to be quick-smart if you want to have your pick and avoid the almost legendary queues. There’s a slight Dickensian parlour/sixth form common room aesthetic going on with bentwood chairs and gilded coving and the place is pleasantly ramshackle. Tattooed cognoscenti. Guitar case and skinny jeans. Prim secretaries. Rowdy creative execs. Pre-theatre types. First daters. Every Soho box was ticked. The branch was the chain’s second location (there are seven in total with the next planned for Liverpool Street) and its busiest so don’t say you weren’t warned! Once inside and settled you’ll realise what all the fuss is about.
The menu is simple. Village idiot simple. One chicken, one vegetarian and five burgers. Couple of sides, couple of sauces and NO dessert. The focus is squarely on the beef and it shows. It’s sourced from Ginger Pig and minced only once so each hand-made patty not only has taste but a very real texture. The Dog ordered the Honest because, well, you just should, and it arrived pretty sharpish, on a brioche bun laden down with red onion relish, smoked bacon, mature cheddar, pickles (optional, apparently, for those weirdos who just can’t) and a stack of rosemary salted chips. And it was a handy size. Not seven inches tall with a skewer holding it all intricately and precariously together nor the size of a dustbin lid that needed a chainsaw and burly friend to help you portion it up and get it off the plate. Hurrah for common sense and a complete absence of ‘burger fall-out’ where you end up with a slimy slice of beef tomato in your lap on the first bite. With a nudge and a wink from the waitress there was also a scoop of the house bacon ketchup on the side. This tasted as good as it sounds and should be ordered with everything. Really…
So yeah, Honest by name, honest by nature. Instead of the usual over-hype which accompanies these ventures, The Dog found things to be pretty straightforward. Probs best to steer clear on the weekend when the bridge and tunnel crowd pile in but highly recommended for a no-nonsense feed on a school night.